Sunday, July 8, 2012

Feeling hot, hot, hot

Kids are asleep. Husband is at a business dinner. I'm going to jump into the shower for the second time today. This heat is no joke. It's a total disaster, actually. And I'm not talking about Global Warming (which is evidently terrible), but about me, cooking in my own broth as I make my way through the frying sidewalks of New York City. 


I walk under the shade, wear a gigantic sunhat (that I got for $9.00 at my current favorite store: Joe fresh), I smear myself and my kids with sunblock made with ingredients that sound more like the components of an atomic bomb than a topical cream. I drink plenty of liquids and I try to skip baking as much as I can. Still, after a minute out, I look as if someone had done tie-die on my face. My clothes are soaking wet and...it is hot, hot, hot.


Many summers ago, right after I graduated from my MA at NYU, I had to walk a couple of Downtown blocks to return my purple cap and gown. It was another miserably hot summer day and I thought I was going to pass out. Then, I had to join my fellow graduates at the Food Studies department for a small gathering. There was food made by the students taking the catering class, and right out of the elevator, we were greeted by them with little shot glasses  with a bi colored chilled melon soup (half orange and half green). It was gloriously restorative and refreshing. It was unforgettable for how good it felt to drink it. 


Once home, I found the recipe online and it became a summer staple in our home ever after. I tried getting the link for the original recipe, but neither epicurious.com nor foodtv.com have it any more, so I'll give you the recipe, originally printed in Gourmet magazine in a bit, but in the meanwhile, please let me tell you about my latest obsession...


For the last couple of weeks, I have been making GRANITAS, first developing a recipe for a watermelon version (soon to be published in kosherscoop.com), and later, because when my daughter tried the one I made for the newsletter, she told me that I was "amazing, the best" and that I would be famous someday, all due to the granita.
Do you think that after that I could ever stop making her granitas (call them slushies, Italian ices or whatever you please)? She comes back from day camp hot, exhausted, starving and happy, and I serve her the granita du jour (whatever fruits I have handy or leftover) to great her, and she's happy and cooled.


We had guests over yesterday, when the temperature reached 100F. I first thought I would make the NYU two-melon chilled soup, but at the end, I tweaked the recipe a bit (organic strawberries were on sale, and I cannot resist a sale, ever) and turned it into a granita that I served as an appetizer. The children were thrilled to have "ices" for lunch, and I was happy I was feeding them pure fruit with fresh mint.


Here are some other food tips to keep cool:


- Rehydrate with coconut water, an excellent, no-sugar added, natural way of restoring the body with liquid AND electrolytes (yup, way better than Gatorade!).
- Munch on high-water content produce: cucumbers, radishes, watermelon, strawberries, melon and citrus are great to keep our bodies cool. They are in season, so they are at their tastiest, most nutritious and least expensive, plus since they contain fiber, vitamins and antioxidants (beta-carotene, vitamin C, mainly), they don't leave your body as fast as plain water does.
- Fresh mint; often used in aromatherapy, this herb's smell and taste are refreshing and soothing, plus it's full of antioxidants. Just throw it into all sorts of dishes: salads, desserts, smoothies, salsas, chilled soups, or make iced tea with them. Everything will taste fresher, brighter and will be more cooling. 
- Green tea and coffee: A great iced version of these could actually be helpful during these sunny days. It's been found, that the catechins (antioxidants) in green tea, protect the skin by absorbing the damaging UV rays. And, a researcher from the Harvard Medical School found that the caffeine in coffee might reduce the risk to develop skin cancer by stimulating UV-damaged cells to naturally die off. However, both tea and coffee are diuretics, so make sure you stay hydrated through other methods (like the ones suggested above).

MELON GRANITA WITH MINT
You can use any kind of melon in this recipe, just make sure it's really ripe and sweet to avoid the need to add any sweeteners, although a couple of tablespoons of raw honey, agave or coconut nectar work well. I've tried granitas with watermelon, honeydew and "sugar kiss" melon. They were all delicious.

You can add strawberries, blueberries, and/or figs (I had some very ripe figs left from last week's post, and they added a wonderful sweetness and unctuous texture). Dried lavender, fresh mint, or rose water, they all worked great in different versions. I'm sure thyme, rosemary, hibiscus, lemon verbena and/or basil would be amazing additions as well. Citrus is key, and I threw in the zests for even more flavor. Have fun with it!




INGREDIENTS
1 small honeydew melon, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
8 ounces (1 small container) organic strawberries, stemmed
2 limes, zest and juice
3 tablespoons fresh mint, or to taste



METHOD
 Purée melon, strawberries,  lime juice and zest and mint in a blender or food processor (or immersion blender) until smooth.


Pour mixture into a 9x9 or 10x10-inch metal baking pan (DO NOT USE GLASS!) and place in the freezer. The pan's measurements don't have to be exact, you need something large (could be shallow), that fits into your freezer.

After 1 hour, run over the ice with the dents of a fork, scraping the ice to form flakes.


Repeat fork scraping after 1 and again after 2 hours to turn ice into the consistency of snowflakes or shaved ice.

Serve in individual bowls or glasses; or cover with plastic wrap and freeze for up to 3 days.


Makes 8-10 portions



TWO-MELON SOUP
Adapted from Gourmet


INGREDIENTS
1 small very ripe cantaloupe, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste
1/2 very ripe honeydew melon, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh mint, minced, or to taste (plus additional sprigs for garnish)

METHOD
In a food processor or blender, puree the cantaloupe and lemon juice (in batches if necessary), until very smooth. Pour into a bowl or large pitcher and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight.
In the same processor or blender (no need to wash it), puree honeydew, lime juice and mint. Pour it into another bowl or pitcher and chill as well.
To serve, pour equal amounts of both purees at the same time into the serving bowls. Using two measuring cups (or the pitchers) is helpful to do this easily. Garnish the soup with mints sprigs and serve.
Serving variation: For a more modern look, place a round cookie cutter on the soup bowl and fill in the center (inside the cutter) with one of the soups and the outside of the cutter with the other one. Remove the cutter and the two circles will stay in place, making for a beautiful presentation.

Makes 6 servings





Sunday, July 1, 2012

Flowers and Dinner

My husband (yes, the workoholic carnivore) just turned 40, and to commemorate his four decades on Earth, a great miracle happened: he took the day off.
We packed some bagels (the patriotic thing to do in NYC) and brownies I'd baked (if you were wondering... They did have beans in them) and the four of us rode the train to The New York Botanical Garden. We'd never been there, and a beautiful day with gorgeous surroundings, delicious scents and the most marvelous views welcomed us and made us very happy to be there and then.




To be honest, I don't really like frogs, but it was pretty cool to hear them (they make a sound of a bass cord being played) and eventually find them


My daugter and I got a bit carried away photographing the flowers (she used my phone, which is currently saturated and barely working) and I used the camera, which is in the same situation. Somehow I got obsessed with the bees in action and I kept chasing them as I repeated over and over to my kids about pollinization, honey, hives...until my five year old told me: "I know. I know," and ran away from my lecture.




It would have been amazing to try a bit of the honey from the Garden's hives...
When our little one was about to freak out from exhaustion, we understood the not very subtle hint and came back to the City.
Our baby sitter came and my husband and I headed to Brooklyn (Bronx, Manhattan, Brooklyn...all in the same day, oh my, we're so cool!) to eat dinner at Pardes restaurant.
I know we were celebrating my other half, but this half doing the typing, had an amazing time as well...
Let me first mention that I was not raised in a religious family and that my kosher observance was a gradual process that kept changing (and becoming stricter) throughout the years. Therefore, I can say that I've tasted pretty much everything. Both of my parents loved eating, and I was raised to love food.
When we moved to NY and I did my Food Studies master's, worked at James Beard and attended pastry school, I still ate at non kosher restaurants. I didn't eat any meat or shellfish, but I would have ovo-lacto-vegetarian dishes or kosher spicies of fish.
I have incredible food memories of meals past. I've kept notes from dinners I attended to and I would read restaurant menus as if they were Russian novels. I loved looking at a beautifully plated dish and I would try to guess what the ingredients were. It was thrilling to taste sauces and discover combinations I'd never tried before. I found it so amazing to be able to engage my sight, smell, taste, touch and even hearing when eating and enjoying. 


Then, about eight years ago, I decided I'd only eat in kosher restaurants. Do I miss eating out? You bet!!! Do I regret it? Not for a second. I'm convinced of what I'm doing, and I believe in it, but it's not easy.
What I miss the most is the real dining experince.I miss being surprised, intrigued and impressed with food in an interesting environment where the plates work as vessels for something pretty, full of flavor and different textures, where the dish tells me about the season and satisfies what I crave depending on the weather.  I miss meals worth of interrupting the conversation to enjoy completely and coment about them.


I know I shouldn't complain because there are a couple of nice kosher restaurants in Manhattan, but it's hard to find places with their own soul where food is loved, and admired. That's what I loved so much about Pardes.

At the end of our meal, where I alone had eaten enough food for a family of 10, I approached the chef (and owner), who was handing out every single dish out of his open kitchen. I mentally first thanked G-d for Sara Blakely's existence, as her Nobel Prize-deserving invention--SPANX-- kept my body from bursting into a million pieces due to oversaturation after the glorious meal I had shared with my husband. Treviso salad, fried sweetbreads, fried chicken with liver mousse, waffles and berries (INCREDIBLY DELICIOUS, crunchy, unctuous, sweet, sour!), a bite of my husband's huge steak and the peach-bacon crisp for dessert. Ah! Did I mention his beet amuse bouche with CHIA???? I owed this man a couple of words (and if we were in another world, those would have been hugs!).

Once I approached this super gutsy individual (who else would ever open such an innovative restaurant for the most traditional of crowds?). C'mon! He changes his menu often, he uses fruits, vegetables and grains most people have never heard of (on the table next to us, a diner ordered fried okra, thinking okra was fish), he's there making sure every single dish comes out exactly as he conceived it. You do taste his passion, and yes, it's not diet food as he loves his fryier, but he uses it with plenty of creativity (and shmaltz).
So, once I got near him, I told him: "Chef, I stopped eating out about eight years ago," he looked at me. "I thought my dining experiences were dead," I said. "But you just resucitated them. Thank you!" He gave me a sweet big smile, as if he understood exactly what I was talking about.

PARDES-INSPIRED FLOWER-SCENTED RADICCHIO SALAD WITH FRESH FIGS AND VANILLA BEAN VINAIGRETTE
Here's a salad inspired by the one we had that night, although I added a bit of ground dried lavender and chamomile to celebrate our day at the Botanical Garden and its incredible blooms. This is not Pardes' recipe (that one, as appears on the menu is made with fresh Mission figs, honey dew, Treviso (radicchio), vanilla/fig vinaigrette, and almonds), but my interpretation of it. So they are different, but both are delicious and gorgeous!


INGREDIENTS
The bitter, wine-colored radicchio paired with the unctuous, sweet and crunchy fresh figs, which are making their seasonal debut, is an intriguing combination. I had a couple of blackberries in the fridge and I threw them in for more texture, more color and even more antioxidants, vitamins and fiber. The caramelized almonds add a nice, sweet crunch, more fiber and a bit of protein.

  • Vegan
  • Free of: dairy, gluten, eggs, soy
  • Super ingredients: radicchio, figs, blackberries, almonds
Salad:

1 medium head of radicchio rosso (purple)
5 fresh figs
½ cup blackberries, blueberries or chopped honeydew
1 cup sliced almonds (preferably skins on)
1 tablespoon coconut nectar (or honey or pure maple syrup)
Dressing:


1 teaspoon ground dried lavender and chamomile flowers (culinary grade)
1 tablespoon coconut nectar (or honey or pure maple syrup)
1/2 vanilla bean
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon roasted walnut oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

METHOD

1. Preheat oven to 350 F.
2. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Place on it the almonds and drizzle in 1 tablespoon coconut nectar. Mix with a spatula (or your clean hands) until almonds are evenly covered and spread them all on one layer.
2. While oven warms up, wash, and pat dry radicchio, figs and blackberries.
3. Break the radicchio leaves apart and quarter figs. Place them in a serving platter along with the blackberries.
4. Roast almonds for about 5 or 6 minutes (if you are using coconut nectar, which gives an amazing flavor, make sure you're vigilant, as it can burn faster than the other sweeteners), until golden.

While almonds cool, prepare dressing:
5. Grind dried lavender and chamomile in a spice grinder until they become a coarse powder.


6. Split vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape seeds with the back of a knive. Place in a small mixing bowl.

7. Add ground flowers, 1 tablespoon coconut nectar and lemon juice, in to the bowl with the vanilla and whisk. Add in walnut oil slowly, while still whisking. Season with salt and pepper.


8. Sprinkle salad with the almonds and then drizzle in the dressing.




Enjoy!
Serves 4






 

Friday, June 15, 2012

Just like Thelma and Louise or Thank You T

The following, is a true story. Just like the classic film Thelma and Louise, it's a heartfelt adventure about friendship, two chicks on the road going through deep life experiences, and an unexpected ending (although no Brad Pitt debut here).

It all started when after 12 years of residing in NYC, and never having driven the Manhattan streets, I finally decided it was time for emancipation and I signed up for zipcar, a car rental service. It wasn't that I was dying to drive, as I love walking in the City and not having a car, but I was hired to teach a baking class in New Jersey and other form of transportation just wouldn't do.
My very loyal, supportive and wonderful friend T--a Jersey girl herself-- offered to copilot my adventure, as she knew I was a rookie (and a bit of an idiot). 

For the first time in my life, I was packed and completely organized on time. Ingredients, recipe print outs, utensils, cookie dough: check, check, check. I got in the car, and drove through First Avenue. "Look at me, look at me," I thought, giving myself an imaginary pat on the back.

I picked T up and we were on our way. We hit lots of traffic when trying to get to the George Washington Bridge. It was pouring, and you know how that goes: more drops=more time stuck in the FDR. It kept raining when we finally passed the broken car causing the bottle neck. I felt really sorry for its driver, but so relieved for myself (one more reason I don't like driving)!

Suddenly, the rain stopped and a blinding sunshine appeared. Hard to drive with so much brightness, but as T and I complained about the light, she spotted a whole arch rainbow. Side to side. It was incredible. Gorgeous.
I kept driving. We passed the toll and I was in awe as I learned the car had its own EZPass. How wonderful! Then we took the wrong exit. I was so glad I wasn't there all by myself...After some turns, T got us back on track. "You are never lost when you are in the car," T quoted her father Z"L. Where was she when I was getting LOST in my CAR in the unsignalized streets of Mexico City when I was 18? That would have given me strength!

We were running a bit late, but we were almost there. We found the main road of the town, we just had to make a turn in Little Meadow Ave (OK I made the name up to protect the real avenue's privacy). Voila! We found the number. Although it didn't look exactly as we pictured the neighbourhood would be. We entered the driveway of the house (well, I kinda drove over its front yard a bit) and a couple smoking right outside the door kept watching our every move. It was all very suspicious...As I was about to park, the owner approached us with a big "WHAT A????" look on his face. T lowered the window and I explained I was teaching a healthy/vegan baking class in his house for his synagogue's sisterhood.

Nope. Nothing made any sense. Finally, he realized we needed to go to North Little Meadow Ave, and his property was actually located on South Little Meadow Ave. He directed us back to the main road and then to the right location.

When we found the right house, T and I breathed with relief. We parked, carried my million ton weighing bags and rang the bell. A very nice lady opened the door. I introduced myself and as I was trying to make my way into her home, she seemed as confused as the people at South Little Meadow Ave. I didn't understand what was going on either. It seemed like a bad dream. Finally, the lady asked me if I was teaching the healthy/vegan baking class NEXT WEEK. I first thought it was a joke. Then I felt as if a bucket of boiling hot, but frozen water had fallen on my head. I turned to look at T. She was livid and more confused than anyone else. I didn't know what to say. Next week's hostess was incredibly nice, allowed us to leave some of the bags in there and pay a visit to the WC. As we got into the car I was so ashamed that I almost cried.
I don't really understand why T is still being my friend, but she was incredible. Right on the spot, in the sweetest of manners she offered to come back with me the next week, when the actual class was taking place.

I felt like a total looser, and the least I could do was treat her to dinner. After the 4 hour ordeal we got back to the City and went for Asian fusion on the Upper West Side.

Our luck began to change. We found a parking spot right next to the restaurant. With no reservation, we entered. First they sat us at the bar, as there were no tables available. In two minutes, the host was back mentioning that there was a cancellation and he offered us a table.
Famished, we ordered dinner in my favorite way: lots of appetizers and side dishes, no entree and a big dessert.
It was all very nice. Then, after we tried to distract ourselves from the really bad first date seating right next to us, I realized I had forgotten to check if there was a meter near our parking spot. I left the table in a hurry and ran to the car. Yes. There was a muni-meter right there and I had ignored it. Freaking out and cursing inside I just thought that night couldn't have been worse. How many mistakes could a person make in the span of 4 hours? My husband would decide to lock me in our room for the rest of my life due to my incompetence and for ever thinking I was capable of doing anything right. How would I explain him a ticket (besides everything else)? As I looked for the paper stating how much I owed, I couldn't find anything. OMG!!!! Thank You!!! No ticket. Phewwwww!!! I fed the meter, placed the receipt inside the car on the driver's window side (as the instructions state. This time I was super careful) and went back to T and the a chocolate passion fruit dessert we had ordered. I dropped her off in her apartment and drove home.
I was terrified to tell my husband about the night's escapades. As he saw how overwhelmed I was, he listened, gave me a hug and cracked up. The laughter felt sooooo good!

T: This eggplant recipe is for you! You are an amazing friend. Thank you so much for being my cheerleader, manager, human GPS, advisor, shrink, sous chef, personalized calendar and for believing in me. Anyone else would have left me melting down in the Jersey Shore last summer!!!

Now, back to the recipe: we had a similar dish at the restaurant that night, and I told T I would work on a miso-glazed eggplant for the blog to commemorate the day. A nice glass of sake goes well with this. A toast for my empty brain!
Cheers!

MISO GLAZED EGGPLANT


Besides their high fiber content, the presence of minerals and vitamins and their low calorie density, eggplants also contain important phytonutrients. Many of those plant-derived substances, work as antioxidants, fighting the effects of free radicals in our cells, which help us protect our bodies from diseases such as cancer and heart conditions.
The antioxidants present in eggplant are mostly phenolic compounds and flavonoids. Among the latter is nasunin, a very potent antioxidant found in eggplant skins, so don't discard that part!  
However, if you suffer from diseases such as arthritis, gastro esophogal reflux, eczema, cystitis, lupus or psoriasis, it might be a good idea to stay away from eggplant, as well as from the other members of the nightshade family (potatoes, tomatoes, chili peppers and tobacco), as they ALL posse an active substance that might worsen the symptoms of these diseases.  


INGREDIENTS
  • Vegan
  • Free of: gluten, dairy, eggs, wheat, nuts
  • Contains: soy and sesame seeds
3.5 ounces (6 tablespoons) white miso*
3 tablespoons brown rice vinegar (not seasoned)
1 1/2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
A couple of drops of toasted sesame oil
3 Italian (baby) eggplants
1 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon sesame seeds

*A paste made out of fermented soybeans and rice. Can be found at most health food stores in the refrigerator section.

METHOD
Preheat oven to 500 F.

In a medium bowl, whisk together miso, vinegar, water, maple syrup and a few drops (about 7) of sesame oil. Set aside.


Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Cut eggplants lengthwise in half (leave the stalks on for presentation, but DON'T eat them) and with a knife, make a few (2 or 3) diagonal slits on the eggplant's flesh. Don't cut through the skin. Repeat at an angle to get a diamond pattern.

Arrange eggplants, cut sides up in the prepared pan. Drizzle a bit of olive oil on top of each (use 1 tablespoons oil total).

Bake on the lower third of the oven for about 7-9 minutes, until the brown a bit and look softer.

Brush eggplant's flesh with half the prepared miso sauce (about 1 teaspoon sauce each). Bake again for 5 more minutes.

Brush in the rest of the glaze and sprinkle sesame seeds on each top. Rotate baking pan (don't turn eggplants over) and bake for about 5 more minutes. The eggplant should be soft and the glaze golden brown.


Serve!

Makes 6 portions.

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Sweet and Simple...

I turned 37 last weekend, and I've been having birthday issues for many years already.
Lots of mixed fillings. On that day, I miss my childhood friends and I miss childhood itself. I miss my family and I feel a lot of nostalgia for the idealized version of happy-birthdays-to-me (and happiness in general) stock in my head.
I don't make a big fuzz about celebrating the addition of an extra year to my life, but it does hit me, even if I try to repress it as much as I can.
However, this year I had a lovely, simple and revealing day. It was perfect without perfection. No big things, just lots of fulfilling, low-key happiness.
First of all, my husband responded to my son's demand for yogurt at the crack of dawn, and gave me the marvelous gift of sleeping-till-late. Later, both kids and husband woke me up singing "happy birthday." My kids were so excited about the date, that they passed the emotion on to me.
We then went to the kitchen and I rinsed some cherries. The first ones I've bought this season.
We sat at the table to bite into the jewel-like stemmed spheres. As our fingers got stained with the deep reddish purple of the fruit's juice; we talked, smiled, enjoyed, savored and chewed. Aren't cherries the most perfect of fruits???? Suddenly, a feeling of full happiness invaded me.

"These are my kids," I thought, and I feel so thankful for them, and for the family I now have. Yes, I miss the past (selectively, as I'm thrilled many things are gone, like puberty, braces, a skin growth on the tip of my nose that made kids call me names and make fun of me, or my parents' separation. But I do miss birthday slumber parties, staying up all night giggling and being silly).
Maybe that's the exact purpose of birthdays... but if savoring cherries and the present with my family weren't enough, my husband and I escaped for a couple of hours to my favorite NY spot: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was the perfect date. The two of us, the Steins' collection, and those vibrant Matisse's made me realize how, despite lots of things that go wrong, my life is as intense and full color as I could have ever asked for.
And...it's cherry season! Those delicious morsels of sweet, tart, meaty juiciness are finally back!!!

If you've been following this blog for some time, you know I do have a bunch of favorites, but if I had to choose, if anyone ever asked, forced, coerced me into picking my #1, I would say cherries. They definitely are my most favorite fruit. Do use the same frase every post???
However, I'd have to say, I find it sad to use them as a cooking ingredient. Not because I don't appreciate their nutritional attributes, such as their high potassium content (a great blood-pressure reducer), or their excellent concentration of phytochemicals like querecetin (an antioxidant that helps control blood pressure), beta carotene, vitamin C and anthocyanins (antioxidants that together, might work fighting and/or preventing cancer). Cherries also help reduce inflammation, they are one of the only food sources of sleep-regulating melatonin, and it's been suggested that their anthocyanins may help decrease fat storage in our bodies. The darker the cherries' skins, the higher the antioxidant concentration. But it truly is because all this goodness, their texture and their sophisticated sweet, tart and mildly fruity flavor that I don't like cooking with them. I don't even like pitting them, as their plumpness gets lost. If I have cherries, I just want to eat them as they are; unaltered.
If I were cooking or baking with them, I wouldn't be able to resist. The dish would never be ready, as I would inhale the bite-sized gems right during prep time.



I guess I can't give you a recipe for how to eat fresh cherries, which by the way, are the most nutritious, as their vitamin C content decreases (or disappears) with the application of heat. However, I can give you a very tasty recipe for a sauce to serve atop of meat.
It's BBQ season already, and although my husband will NEVER be found commanding a grill, he'll always be right next to it, with a plate in hand, ready to get the first steak. So, he'll love me for serving him this dish tonight (although it'll be roasted, not grilled). I'm not a big carnivore, but red meat saves my marriage, as he could have it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Once in a while it's a great source of iron and protein.


LONDON BROIL WITH CHERRY SAUCE
To avoid any temptation to devour the cherries (and save myself and you a nice amount of work), I use frozen pitted ones. Cherries are in the "dirty dozen," food list of the highest pesticized produce, so pick a bag of organic cherries in the freezer section if you can find them.


INGREDIENTS

MEAT:
1 1/2 pounds London broil
5 small garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
5 or 6 thyme sprigs
sea salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste

CHERRY SAUCE
1 (10 ounce) package frozen pitted sweet cherries
2 1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons white miso paste
1 garlic clove, peeled and smashed
3 thyme sprigs
freshly ground black pepper, to taste

METHOD

MEAT:
In a roasting pan, place London broil and season it with salt and pepper on both sides. With a pairing knife, cut 5 slits (about 3/4-inch long) along the meat and place garlic cloves inside them.

Drizzle vinegar and oil over the meat and place thyme on top. Cover with foil and marinate in refrigerator overnight or for at least 4 hours.

Preheat oven to 400 F and roast meat uncovered for about 30 minutes, then cover and cook for another 30 minutes (but beware that time will depend on the thickness of the meat).
Pour cherry sauce on the meat just as it comes out of the oven. Serve.
 
 
CHERRY SAUCE
In a small saucepan, bring frozen cherries, vinegar, miso, garlic, thyme and a bit of pepper to a boil over medium heat.

Lower flame and simmer for about 10-15 minutes, until it thickens a bit. Remove thyme sprigs and mash the cherries slightly with a spatula or wooden spoon. Taste for seasoning (miso is usually salty enough to forgo any salt, but you might have to adjust).

Pour salt on cooked London broil and serve.

Sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Serves 4 people

Sunday, June 3, 2012

Ode to Garbanzos

Do you know how sometimes you meet someone and at the beginning you don't think much of him, and as you get to know her better you realize how fabulous the person is?
At some point, you can't seem to think of life without them.
And if that weren't enough, they keep surprising you even more. Your admiration never seems to end.

Well, that's my love story with chickpeas.

Yes, I have some other favorites. It's no secret how fascinating I find chia to be, how much I enjoy ice cream, how I choose dates instead of other sweeteners whenever I can, how much I love Mexican mangoes or raw honey. But I hold a special place in my heart (and my whole digestive tract) for the humble garbanzo.
I don't remember the first time I tried the chick-beaked bean (yes! that's where its name comes from), as I'm sure it was during my early childhood. It was always there, just like in a romantic novel, I kind of ignored it until it proved its magnificence, and then I couldn't go back.

Chickpeas are discrete. They don't care about being the center of attention, but they are always supportive of other ingredients, complementing them on their qualities. From garlic, to chocolate to curry to fresh herbs, chickpeas are always a great match. Savory or sweet, hot or cold, mashed or whole, at any season, for breakfast, snack, lunch or dinner, they can always be there to help, even in the convenience of a can. They might not sport fancy "super food" signs on their packaging, nor the prices commanded by such products, but they are precious.
Just like all legumes, garbanzos are rich in protein and are an amazing source of fiber, especially the insoluble type, which protects our colon after being metabolized by the healthy bacteria in the gut (remember last post about kefir? Well those bacteria).
Chickpeas are great food to achieve satiety (avoiding overeating, by producing the sensation of fulfillment of hunger with less amount of food) and they are also good for regulating blood-sugar levels. They can help lower LDL- (bad) cholesterol, total cholesterol and triglycerides.
If that weren't enough, these Middle Eastern and Indian natives contain omega-3 fatty acids and protect our cells with their high content of antioxidants such as flavonoids, phenolic acids and the mineral manganese. 
In the kitchen, they are chameleons. They can be creamy and smooth when pureed or crunchy when roasted. They are great in stews or in soups and are a great addition to salads. They respond really well to sour flavors, to spice, to heat, and to sweet. When paired with whole grains, they can make a full meal with complete protein and fiber.
I use them as a base for healthy and delicious icing for cakes and cookies, and last week I made a salad by combining them with fresh lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, shredded carrots, fresh dill and mint, cooked wheat berries, sunflower seeds, a bit of cumin and some raisins. A keeper!
I try to always store a can of chickpeas (I prefer Eden brand, as they are BPA free) in my pantry for emergencies, but I try to cook a large batch of them once every two weeks.
I soak them in water overnight and the next morning I rinse them and put them in a crock pot with fresh water, covering the beans for about 2 inches. I go about my day, and when I come home, I season them and...they are ready. I freeze the left overs when there are any, but there's so much to do with them and they are such an easy-to-incorporate ingredient, that I usually end up using them all. Hummus, couscous, salad, roasted with spices as a snack, a quick lunch with veggies, etc etc.
I thought by now I knew them pretty well, but as I mentioned above, these little guys don't cease to surprise me.
A couple of days ago, my friend Debra Waldoks emailed me about her newest favorite dish. "Socca," she wrote, and she thought I would like it. I've worked, eaten and discussed food with Debra before, so I knew I could trust her. Filled with curiosity, I googled the South of France specialty (which is also enjoyed in Italy but called farinata) and realized I had all the ingredients in my kitchen to make a home version of this street food. I turned my oven on as hot as it can go, and proceeded to make the chickpea flour pancakes.
I'm a huge fan of crepes, and socca isn't only a delicious version of them, but it's also easy to make, it's gluten, egg, nut, dairy and soy free and features chickpeas at the top of their grandeur, as their Provencal creators might say. It has a bit of a falafel flavor, but with a very different texture. it can be eaten all by itself, right out of the oven or used as a base for pizza, salad or anything else you can think of. Just try it!

I can't wait to experiment further with it. Maybe a sweet version coming soon? Will let you know....
I only wished I were enjoying it near the beach in Nice, but since unfortunately, I don't have plans to be there this summer, I'll conform with eating them near the East River, and not near the Cote d'Azur.
In the meanwhile, I leave you with the basic recipe that I got by combining one published in the New York Times a couple of years ago and one by David Lebovitz, who included it in The Sweet Life in Paris.


SOCCA (FARINATA)
INGREDIENTS
1 cup (4 ounces) chickpea flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
4 to 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves, optional

1/8 teaspoon ground cumin, optional


Heat oven to 500 F. Put a nonstick 12-inch pan, or a 10-inch cake pan (preferably non-stick) a or cast-iron skillet in oven.


Sift chickpea flour into a bowl. Add salt and pepper and whisk in the water slowly, eliminating any lumps that form.



Stir in 2 tablespoons olive oil, chopped rosemary and cumin. Cover, and let sit while oven heats, or refrigerate overnight. The batter will be loose, similar to crepe batter.


Once oven and pan are super hot, pour in 2 tablespoons oil into heated pan, and swirl to cover the bottom evenly. Pour in half of the batter, and bake for 10 minutes.

Check and see if socca looks firm, is starting to blister and the edges are a bit browned. If not, let it cook for 2 more minutes and check again, until it looks as described. 

Slide socca off the pan into a cutting board. Slice into pieces or break with your hands. Prepare the rest of the batter the same way.
Eat hot or warm, and if you want, top it with whatever your heart desires or just as it comes out of the oven.


Serves 4 as an appetizer.

Where can you find chickpea (also called garbanzo) flour? Health food stores, Whole Foods, Fairway or online in http://www.amazon.com/ or http://www.bobsredmill.com/